1. route on the Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon … Both are Layton Kor direttissimas — the Spur climbed in 1959, the Edge three years later — and both take Eldo’s most prominent arêtes, the Spur beelining up the vibrant-yellow pyramid of Redgarden Wall’s Tower One, the Edge towering 800 feet … Each time was an absolute joy. It’s a proper old-school sandbag with really stiff, sustained pitches. You continue on the trail until you get to the obvious huge chimney, West Chimney. Calypso: Rated 5.6, 3 or 4 pitches: Follow the trail past the 2 railroad tie stepped sections, past the ladder. Both options funnel into the 5.6 final arête, where climbers become the unwitting playthings of Chinook winds. A contender for the most-famous “hard-person” route in the United States, the “Edge” takes on the soaring, knife-edge prow of Redgarden’s Tower Two. The climbing is tricky and the protection can be trickier, as you meander your way up the discontinuous crack systems. Eldorado Canyon, also known as “Eldo”, is loaded with classic climbing. Not all tape works well for climbing - gear shops have usually identified a brand that works well - the local pharmacy has not. In Eldo, it doesn’t work to simply charge ahead mindlessly. Mostly, this jacket sits in the bottom of your pack and comes out when the weather gets nasty with precipitation. Five Classics near the Yellow Spur, Eldorado Springs Canyon, Colorado. Fantastic positioning, fun and engaging climbing with sustained … This pack should close completely so that no items can fall out. With a sixteen-bed lodge available exclusively to Colorado Mountain School students, course participants are welcome to reserve a bed, but should be aware that there course meets each morning in Boulder or Denver – approximately a 50 -70 minute drive from our lodge. Colorado Mountain School is an equal opportunity provider and is operated under special use permit with the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forest. The Yellow Spur, Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. Suddenly, the snow-capped Indian Peaks crystallize on the skyline. Bladders such as Camelbacks and Platypus are acceptable for above freezing temps, but only in conjunction with another bottle. Synthetic or Merino Wool; Adds extra warmth and protection from the cold and wind without creating a moisture barrier as a jacket would. A sampling of other fantastic routes includes Wind Ridge, Ruper, Rewritten, Green Spur, Yellow Spur and the Naked Edge. UIAA/CE approved; Should be large enough to fit over a beanie. On long routes, rock shoes should be comfortable enough to wear for day. This jacket should fit over all other layers. One of the best moderate routes in Eldorado, you’ll begin up a chimney on the West Face of Redgarden Wall to access the exposed upper arete pitches. Outer Space: Rated 5.10, 4 pitches (including the Bastille Crack start): The Naked Edge: Rated 5.11, 5 pitches: 1 liter bottles are the standard. Women: Rab Womens Sawtooth. I also think the casual is a great route, but the long walk and crowds are definite detractions. Sure, hardcores like Josh Wharton have speed-solo’ed the thing in 13 minutes, but most parties allow a good half-day. If you’re interested in a course, but it doesn’t fit into your schedule, please check out our private guiding options. UIAA or CE approved; With belay loop and gear loops. Long sleeve cotton t-shirts can be nice for the crack climbing days. The climbing above can be nebulous, up on the so-called “Zot Face,” but even with its mountaineering/rockaneering feel, this is a good, testy trad line.Beta:mountainproject.comGear: Standard rack. This is the one Eldo climb that most visiting climbers who climb the grade want to tick, and for good reason. Men: Rab Forge LS Tee After an intricate, technical approach, Ruper climbs a pitch to the infamous Ruper Crack, a steep wide crack and corner with a lot of air underfoot. Either the Naked Edge is the 5.11 Yellow Spur, or the Yellow Spur is the 5.9 Naked Edge. For all seasons, cotton, loose-fitting (or tight, stretchy) pants are usually acceptable for rock climbing. Such movement, combined with striking natural beauty and the knowledge that you’re following in the footsteps of climbing’s legends, makes climbing in Eldo an experience not soon forgotten. 100-feet from the parking lot, this is the most visible, historic and popular route in Eldorado (and maybe Colorado!). or the nefarious Dirty Deed rappels to climber’s left. Either the Naked Edge is the 5.11 Yellow Spur, or the Yellow Spur is the 5.9 Naked Edge. Go down & R a very short distance. Protection can be difficult to find, and without open eyes looking in all directions, so can the holds. With a 70m rope, you can string the first two pitches together.Beta:mountainproject.comGear: Standard rack, with an emphasis on finger-sized TCUs. Colorado Mountain School; Neptune Mountaineering. Please call to register participants under 18, Winter has turned back on. Check out more photos or add comments. These protect your hands from rope wear when belaying or rappelling and keep your hands warm at belays. The rock is sandstone, but few splitters are found here. Rewritten: Rated 5.7 (with the 5.8 Great Zot start), 6 pitches: P.S. Just minutes from Denver and featuring routes over 600 feet tall, Eldo is a playground for climbers of all abilities. Routes: North America: United States: Colorado: Boulder Area: Eldorado Canyon: Redgarden Wall: The Yellow Spur. New climbers are encouraged to wear pants or capris. An exposed journey up steep jam cracks and corners, the Bastille Crack exemplifies Eldo’s stiff technical grades and thought-provoking climbing. From here, four pitches of 5.4 to 5.8 crack and corner climbing take you high above the spiny West Ridge, a trad cragger’s paradise. July 16, 2004. It’s a direct line and pretty straightforward finishing on the summit of the first tower. Cotton Socks are acceptable for most rock climbing days. Darkness ‘til Dawn  (5.10-)The beautiful, semi-leaning corner tucks into an alcove not too gruelingly far uphill from Yellow Spur. For beginning climbers, having a looser fit is advisable. They have sticky climbing rubber on the bottom and a formed fit to influence better climbing abilities while scrambling. As you move up, be ready to build your own anchors, and avoid climbing below other parties in the blocky 5.4 corner on pitch four. Should be made with at least two layers of fabric. Roll of 1.5-2” tape; These are best found at rock climbing gyms or shops such as Neptune Mountaineering. • Lodging must be booked separately for $44.22/night (tax included). But the Edge is a pumpy, tricky hardperson’s climb, while the Spur is a hard-everyperson’s outing, with two distinct cruxes bookending some of Eldo’s best moderate climbing. It’s a beautiful, logical line of seven pitches up the biggest wall in the canyon (Redgarden), and finishes on the undeniably … A tether is ideal in the mountains to protet against dropping your phone. Tie a knot in one end of it.Beta:mountainproject.comGear: Standard rack with emphasis on hand sizes. Hooded base layers add extra versatility. Non-SPF rated lip balms can actually increase your chances of getting burned. On the morning of June 22, 2010, Joseph Miller fell while leading the second pitch of the Yellow Spur. I’ve climbed The Yellow Spur – which rises about 400 feet up the biggest piece of stone in Eldorado Canyon near Boulder – three times.