The other side has the switch and terminals. Apparently there is a law which requires this type of garage door opener device to wait at least 30 seconds between operations. I created a smartthings account just to say so! Just confounding. This makes the contacts polarity insensitive. I was also able to connect to a zwave Hub. Also seams to break the wall button until the hour is up. Just wanted to share in case someone else is looking to do same thing. As you can see, an external voltage applied across the contacts is run through a full wave bridge. I first thought it was that and waited a full day before trying again but still no dice. I am greatly appreciative of any ideas you might have. Download the free myQ App, and purchase either a Chamberlain Smart Garage Hub, or upgrade your existing garage door opener to a smart garage door opener with built-in myQ connectivity. So I looked at test point “SS” with my 'scope. I did not buy the MyQ option. It’s not that the controller differs greatly from […] My wall button does have the motion sensor and controls for options like automatically closing the door, etc. I decided that if I could force test point “SS” low then the GD00Z-4 would work. I have a Craftsman garage door opener with the “smart” wall switch (motion sensor, temperature, etc.) Hope this thread helps many others! The “COM” test point is circuit ground. Apparently there is a law which requires this type of device to wait at least 30 seconds between operations. ; but, I do not use any of that. And if you have an ohmmeter, connect it to the Linear’s output. Your home will also need a strong Wi-Fi signal to be able to control and monitor your garage through the myQ App. Obviously, I’ve voided my warranty (for sure on the GD00Z-4, possibly on the door opener?). Best of luck! Occasionally, they pull them too. Powered by Discourse, best viewed with JavaScript enabled, How I Made Linear's GD00Z-4 Work with LiftMaster's MyQ Door Opener. @scurrier, since no one else answered your question… yes, after shorting SS to COM in the GD00Z-4, just connect its leads to the 2 wire screws on the back of the MyQ button. I suggest separating the Linear device and the wall button to isolate the problem. Put the wires back on my opener and it doesn’t work again. Ok so I need help, I have been reading and reading all of these posts. As you’d imagine, they lift garage doors. Obviously the Linear device won’t open the door, but it should beep. Been working for a couple of weeks now. Like most people normal hook up of the linear device did not operate the garage door. So I took it on step further. My guess is its constantly sending a signal to the button, am I wrong? Now I understand, my curiosity is quenched, and hopefully yours is too. First I want to say “thank you!” to everyone that posted about the 60 second delay. To make things worse, when I remove the wires from my opener and clip them to my continuity tester, then press the button in my SmartThings app, the tester beeps! After I use smartthings to open or close the door it stops working. I assumed that was because of the one minute delay imposed by Linear. The rectified voltage is filtered by a small cap and fed to the base of a transistor. Thanks. I want to second this post as brilliant! And. I wonder why it didn’t? A HUGE thanks to you for taking the time to explore this and to share your solution!!! No hassle and basically in spec. . We’ve found the LiftMaster MyQ 7675 Garage Door Opener to be a prime example of that. I got the wireless remote and soddered the wires on the board on the button terminals. Actually I take it back, I don’t know if i did something but it seems to work once per hour. TL;DR – Shorting test point “SS” to ground seems to have let my GD00Z-4 work with my LiftMaster. If so, this might be happening. Thanks for the info…I have a liftmaster 8065, but short the SS to COM doesn’t solve my problem. At the end, I connect wire to remote’s switch button, Which works very well… The transistor then switches the test point “SS” to ground. Follow three quick steps to connect or read additional resources from LiftMaster. My only qualm with the whole setup is that the powercord of the GD00Z-4 is only about 3-4 ft which I have used an extension cord, but will install a new outlet once its not freezing outside. Now for the full disclosure part. Did the exact same thing on some linear openers for my craftsman (liftmaster rebadge) and it works! After a little investigation I discovered that the GD00Z-4 monitors the relay contacts to see if it’s connected to an opener. The wall switch functions normally and the GD00Z-4 is successfully opening/closing the door. Good Luck! myQ SMART ACCESS. So I popped open the GD00Z-4 and found a mechanical AZ957 Subminiature PC Board Relay. And that still works, so I am happy. Does anyone have any other ideas what might be causing this issue and how I can fix it. I was able to get this working without cracking open any of the equipment. . I looked at my door opener with the 'scope and noticed that the 5’ish volt signal had bursts of noise every 250ms. How to create a MyQ account; Tap myQ Smart Garage Hub on the Device Setup screen. I have a Liftmaster 8500 garage door opener and a MyQ 888LM Button connected to it. Outstanding! I can’t find my documentation, so I don’t know exactly which terminals they are. I should probably subtitle this “How I Broke My Warranty.”. . and My GD00Z-4 also works as expected. But knowing that the transistor just shorts SS to ground, I decided to simply do that. by that i mean the normal wall button and the wireless controller can still control the garage door, but… The button the linear device is soldered to will not control the garage door and when I use smart things to activate the garage door it does not beep or do anything. BTW, there’s Vcc on the print board, which can provide +3V power to the remote. I just spliced into the two wires running from the door opener to the wall switch. It worked perfectly! What do you think? I appear to be having the same issue where I only can do one operation per hour. To be clear, are we saying that the fancy motion detector garage door push button’s wires can be shorted to open the garage door? For fun, I measured the current used by my opener when shorting its wires and found it was only 50mA. Did you ever figure out he one hour delay? As you can see, I soldered the white jumper wire from test point “SS” to the “COM” test point. Yet every now and then, the manufacturer decides to throw us a curveball. How could it not work? If you already have one, log into the MyQ app. when I use smart things to activate the garage door it does not beep or do anything. It’s the “does not beep” that bothers me. It shows up in my SmartThings app. Thank you. And I understood something – the reason the wireless remotes and external relays work is because they isolate the GD00Z-4 from the communications “noise.”. I have not tried to see if the motion sensor or any of those other options still work. I connected the linear to the micro switch terminals and that triggers the opener after it’s paired. To answer my own question, I decided to throw caution to the wind and test it on my opener. LiftMaster's Smart Access Ecosystem is reinventing how people control, manage and use access for a more simple and seamless way of life. Learn how to set up LiftMaster myQ-enabled Wi-Fi garage door openers. Let us know how it turns out. It appears that Linear has chosen to wait 60 seconds or so. Makes my day.